A few months ago, a neighbor asked us if we had visited some of the forts in Arizona. Our answer, of course, was a quick “yes.” We love forts! During our cross-country journey, we stopped to explore some historic forts such as Castillo de San Marcos Florida, Fort Clatsop in Oregon, Fort Mandan in North Dakota, Fort Robinson in Nebraska and Fort Osage in Missouri, to name just a few. When we settled down in Arizona, we continued searching for historical places that intrigued us. Forts fell in that category.
The day we were asked about the forts in Arizona, we had a long discussion about how many forts we had found in our travels. At that time, we guessed that we had visited and photographed about nine to ten military sites. Months later, in preparation for this article, we looked through our records and our pictures — we were amazed! We have seen 20 forts in this state. A few of them are operational, some are well preserved, and some have disappeared or disintegrated over time. When we visited the ones listed in this article, we found some remnants: adobe walls, historical signs, rock walls, museums, etc.
In previous articles, we have included some forts. We will, therefore, not be describing the following sites in this section: Camp Rucker in Cochise County, Slaughter Ranch Outpost near Douglas, Fort Bowie located near Willcox, Camp Naco located near the port of entry, Fort Tuthill south of Flagstaff, Fort Grant in Bonita, Fort Thomas west of Safford, Camp Grant near Dudleyville, Camp Crittenden in Sonoita, Camp Hyder south of Hyder and Patton Training Camp in Bouse.
Included in this article are seven new locations and two previously mentioned sites. Sit back, relax, and enjoy some of the forts we have seen in our newly adopted state.
Fort McDowell is located on the Fort McDowell Yavapai Indian Nation, located 23 miles northeast of Phoenix. The fort was built in 1865 to protect trade routes in the area. It was built in Indian country, surrounded by mountains and in a very isolated area. From 1870 to 1890, the supply trail from Fort McDowell to Fort Whipple in Prescott needed protection from the neighboring Indian tribes.
When we arrived at the site, we visited the Fort McDowell cemetery, and explored the visible remains of the fort. We located three intact buildings, one partial adobe building and two foundations. During our discussion with the docent in the Yavapai Nation Museum and Cultural Center, we were informed that the majority of the fort was bulldozed and currently lies beneath the elementary school building.
Fort Huachuca is located on Route 90, west of Sierra Vista. This military camp was established in 1877 as a temporary U.S. Army outpost to counter the Apache threat and to secure the Mexican Border. In 1882, it became a permanent installation. From 1913 through 1933, it was the base for the “Buffalo Soldiers,” or African American soldiers.
This installation has had a long history of duties and functions. The post is currently known as the U.S. Army Intelligence Center. The literature indicates that it is currently one of the largest army installations in the United States. The post consists of 70,000 acres; 110 acres are the “Old Post.”
In 2011, we departed in search of the Old Post. To our delight, we found several intact buildings: the barracks, the adobe and stone post chapel, the two-story hospital building and the Pershing House. All of those structures are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
On that day, we were comforted to see that the historic section of the fort was well preserved for visitors to see and enjoy. Walking in the park, where the first soldiers used to live in tents, we could sense how they felt when they arrived in this truly desolate section of the Arizona Territory. If we imagined even more, we could almost hear the sounds of the bugle bouncing off the mountain walls.
Also on site, there are two informative and interesting museums: the Fort Huachuca Historical Museum, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, that tells the story of the U.S. Army in the Southwest, the original fort, the Buffalo Soldiers and the Apache Wars. The U.S. Army Intelligence Museum also has some unusual artifacts: radio gear, code machines and a section of the Berlin Wall. Both museums were worthy of our time. Note: for those interested in visiting this site, check the up-to-date entry requirements before you go.
Fort Verde Historic Park, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is located in the downtown Camp Verde district. This park prides itself in preserving and protecting the fort that was established in 1865 to offer protection to the settlers in the area. In the 1870s and 1880s, the fort served as a base for General Crook’s U.S. Army scouts and soldiers.
From 1865 through 1891, the fort housed officers, doctors, families and enlisted men. Today, this park offers tours and living demonstrations. Located in one of the original buildings, the museum contains artifacts found in the area, relates the story of the Indian Scouts and tells the history of the fort.
We visited for the first time in October 2018 and were amazed at the number of structures within the perimeter of the fort. The parade grounds, white picket fences, the American flag waving and the buildings in a straight line along the parade grounds gave this place an air of elegance. At this site, information panels are located near all of the remaining buildings and visitors have access to the historic buildings. In her book, “Vanished Arizona,” Martha Summerhayes stated that she liked this fort. We understood what she meant! This site rates #1 for charm.
Fort Lowell Historic Park, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is located on North Crawford Road in Tucson. This park preserves the remains of Fort Lowell (1873-1891). The fort, located on the outskirts of town, was a U.S. Army installation which, on average, included 13 officers and about 200 enlisted men. The primary responsibilities of the fort were: providing protection to the town of Tucson and distributing supplies to the outlying military installations.
Our first visit to the fort was in May 2013, and we were impressed with the quality and quantity of the remains. We located the post hospital, the officers’ quarters (NRHP), and the commandant’s quarters, which is currently a museum. Across the street on East Fort Lowell Road, we located the post trader’s store (NRHP), the post trader’s storehouse (NRHP), and the quartermaster storehouse (NRHP). We walked along the cottonwood lane, strolled on the parade grounds and explored the museum. This is a place where we could see and feel the past in all its glory.
Fort Yuma, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is located across the river from Yuma, Arizona. Interesting fact: it is currently located in Imperial County, California. It was built in 1848 to protect the settlement of Yuma, to quell the Indian unrest and to protect the supplies arriving at the depot.
Throughout its lifespan, it served many purposes and today this fort is part of the Fort Yuma Indian Reservation. The tribe uses many of the existing buildings as administrative offices and health clinics. During our visit, we were surprised by the number of structures that still exist.
Old Bush Valley Fort, located one mile southeast of Alpine, was built in 1880 by Mormon settlers. The log house fort was built to protect the early inhabitants from Indian raids. Currently, a large rock with a plaque stands at the site of the original fort. This was an outstanding accidental find!
Fort Whipple, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was established in 1863 as a U.S. Army post that served as the Arizona Territory’s first capital prior to the founding of the town of Prescott. Throughout the years, this fort has undergone many changes and has performed many functions including tactical base for the U.S. Cavalry during the Indian Wars, headquarters of the Rough Riders during the Spanish-American War and a military hospital during WWI and WWII.
Today, it is a VA hospital and is listed as a major tourist attraction in the area. In May 2014, we were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at this magnificent fort built in the shape of a rectangle with the parade grounds in the center. The warehouses, hospital, and two-story residences line the outside of the area. All of the brilliant white buildings are well-maintained. With the blue sky, green grass, mature trees, flowering bushes, and impeccable landscape, the fort displays an air of elegance. This is one of the most impressive forts we have seen in Arizona.
Fort Apache Historic Park, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is located on the White Mountain Apache Reservation south of Whiteriver. The historic park preserves structures from the original fort and from the era of the Bureau of Indian Affairs boarding schools.
During our visit in 2016, we found that the original layout of the fort has not been altered and some of the structures are original. The oldest structure is the log cabin that was reportedly the residence of General Crook. One of the original four barracks is still standing. We also found remains of the Theodore Roosevelt Indian Boarding School, built in 1923.
On the grounds of the fort, two large brick dormitories, one for girls and one for boys, still stand as remnants of the past. The school building has survived and currently provides education for the children in the area. The Nohwike Bagowa (House of our Footprints) Museum, located at the entrance of the park, contains information about the Apache culture and history.
Camp Navajo is located on Interstate 40, near the village of Bellemont. This camp was established in 1942 to be used as a storage facility for ammunition used in World War II. During the war, Navajo were recruited for the packing and shipping of ammunition. Today, the site is managed by the Arizona National Guard and is an active munitions storage site, industrial park and training site.
Camp Navajo, for many years, has been “an inspectable site under the Strategic Arms Reduction Treaty.” We had read about this historical site, and we were excited when we arrived in June 2016. We took pictures of the sign, flag and entrance gate, then we entered the premises. Access to the site was not granted! We asked about the historical section of the camp and were informed that they replaced all of the information signs in the area and had paved the path. Access to the camp, however, is limited to military members. Sometimes, things do not work out as planned.
We have had some breathtaking moments while exploring some of the historical remnants in our beloved state. We wish you, our fellow explorers, travels filled with wonder and excitement.
Travels with Two Sisters is a series of Arizona adventures with Green Valley residents Marie “Midge” Lemay and Suzanne “Sue” Poirier. For more discoveries, check out their books: “One Mile at a Time,” “A Gypsy in Our Souls,” “Connecting Dots,” and their latest, “We Don’t Mind if You Come Along.”